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Metal Detecting Tips | Super Metal Detector Secrets
Date: Saturday February 4, 2012
Metal Detecting Tips | Super Metal Detector Secrets
Using The Rubber Tool Dip Stuff On Bottom Of A Coil.
instead of a coil protector. I got a can of it yesterday for a little over $7 and painted it on with a brush... looks decent, and should protect it pretty well.
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Protect your coil.. how ever you choose to do it! Now i'll tell you what i did to mine. BUT, i will not recommend it to everyone only because it has voided my warranty for my 'coil'. This works for me and my situation. I'm hunting the water and am very hard on my coil bottom.
Scrapes and scratches would have destroyed my coil if i did not keep doing this. And my depth is Not affected! I use marine epoxy on my coil. Now before you start shaking your head remember, i've found items close to a foot and a half deep in the sand and rock!So depth is NOT an issue.. and that included small items like stud earrings. I use the 50 minute ready stuff.
When it chips off i patch that spot with a new application. So thats what i do, if i was a dry land hunter i might have gone with a plastic coil protector maybe, But for me the Marine Epoxy has been great. What ever you choose, Do use something to protect your coil.
Alot of water detectorist choose from my research tho according to the manufacturers, It will void the warranty. All about choice... Now if I was in Rocky terrain or other tough enviroments to hunt then I would use a coil cover on land and go with the Marine Epoxy for the water.
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Many detectorists are using spray-on truck bed liner for the same thing.
It can also be had in gallon cans, too, besides the spray can, if you wish to brush it on.
It takes 2-3 coats of the spray to get a layer about 1mm thick. But the stuff is impervious to just about anything. You seriously cant hurt it.
Vinyl dip on coatings can be scratched or gouged, but not the bed liner material. It also does a good job of sealing to coil against water intrusion.
I have done it to one coil and it creates such a thin layer of protection that there is no worry about "depth loss," which is of little concern anyway. Your average plastic coil cover is at least as thick as this stuff, and no one complains about depth loss with those.
Will it void the warranty? Probably. But in over 20 years of detecting I have only had one coil problem, and that was on a Tesoro Tiger Shark water detector that sprung a leak. Had I had the liner material on it, it might have been sealed and not been a problem! So this whole matter of warranty violation may be moot.
Besides, coils are the working end of the instrument - they take the knocks and punishment. If anything is gonna go, it's the coil and they won't last forever. I consider them to be nearly expendable.
I reckon if you are out using your detector like you should, you probably have enough coin and loot to replace a coil, anyway, should it be needed!
So have a look at this bed liner stuff. It can be renewed with just a quick spray now and then, and is likely to last longer than you will care for it to.
Maybe a new (old) place to look for treasure?
I was looking at the "How To Find Lost Treasure" by Charles Garrett that came with my pro-pointer and they suggest a place to look for treasure that I hadn't thought of before. He says to look at old newspapers in the lost and found section.
Super Metal Detector Secrets
#1
If I Find An Old Coin In An Area That Is Lets Say
Approximately A 20' X 20' Area Or "Whatever". I Will Immediately
Assume It's A Probable Hot Spot Area. I Then Go Into Another
State Of Mind And I Will Really Slow Down And Work That Area At
Every Perceivable Angle.
Even If I Go Back To The Same Hot Spot Area A Week Later I Will Do The Same Thing. I Do However Highly Recommend That You Go Back To Your Known Hot Spots And Post Your New Finds Here!! I Know By Me Doing This I Have Almost Always Been Rewarded. I Guarantee You That I Will Go Back Again And Again To My Designated Hot Spots And Sooner Or Later That Hot Spot Will Reward Me Once Again.
Vinyl dip on coatings can be scratched or gouged, but not the bed liner material. It also does a good job of sealing to coil against water intrusion.
These Hot Spot Areas Seem To Get Permanently Eched On My Mind And I Will Never Forget Them..Here's A Prime Example..One Day I Marked Off A Known Hot Spot Area With Sticks. It Was Approximately A 15' X 15' Area..I Worked This Area For Approximately A 1/2 Hour. I Scored One Indian Head,One Barber Dime And One Seated Dime. I Had Finally Concluded That I Had Worked This Area Out For The Day..
#2
Out
Of Sheer Boredom The Next Day I Returned To The Same Hot Spot
And Guess What? This Same And I Mean This SAME Marked Out Hot
Spot Area In The Short Time Span Of 15 Minutes Or Less Managed
To Give Up The Same Thing Again One Indian Head,One Barber Dime
And One Seated Dime. So Now I Have Given Up Two Of My Secrets #1
Is (Angles) Try Every Perceivable Angle Or Different Angles And
#2 Is (Day) Have Faith It Seems A New Day Can Bring New Targets Or It's Just Plain Hard To Work An Area Out.
Here is a technique I just learned from a book I read on the DFX, it is called hovering. Actually I bet many of you probably already do it. It is helpful for IDing a good signal amongst trash in discriminate mode.
The idea is to learn to keep the coil moving in a short half circle side to side and back to try to isolate the good target in the middle of all of the trash signals. I used it today for the first time and found it to work really well.
Even with a large coil I could locate and read data on that one good coin signal right beside iron and other trash targets. Once you get around the good target you can angle the coil slightly toward the object and your meter will have a better chance of locking on and giving you a good reading.
Some folks might think this is somewhat unethical - but I prefer to think of it as protecting "my" hunting spots.
Whenever I find myself hunting in a place where I spot other detectorists, I will begin sweeping in an area well away from any areas I think might be "hot spots"...I make a great show of finding stuff - and trust me, I always seem to manage to find a LOT of stuff!
Then I leave the area entirely...When I come back in an hour or two, I can always see where the other hunters have ravaged my decoy area (signs of digging - and yes, I sometimes have to fill some holes and pick up trash that has clearly been excavated)...but without fail (thus far) I've found NO evidence of hunting in my designated hot spots now, I realize they may have found some stuff in the decoy area - BUT my scouted-out prime spots are always left for me!
Hunting on a beach.
If you find something good, then not only look in a circle of that area, but also take a path to the water. Meaning that I work my was down hill so to speak. Our tide differences are 10-14 feet, high to low tide. As far as giving away secrets, I like helping others who are having problems with finding things. But I am still very new at this sport, (started in Sept of 08). I'm still having a hard time finding a good place to work. But when I do find something, I have to be very careful about who you tell, because everyone will descend upon that area like vulchers and rape the land.
When detecting an older site, look around at first. Look at the layout of the vegitation...tree's, shrubs, etc. Now if for example there is a line of shrubs that act like a fence, detect that area very good. Kids usually don't walk around stuff, but rather through the object. Buster found a Merc in this way, the site had seen three or four building on that site dating to the 1870's and they were all schools.
Be on the lookout for new construction at all times. Same school as above was having some concrete torn up right by the flagpole. I detected this spot at 1 am when I noticed it on my drive home from work this past November, I found a 1920's Merc and a 1907 V Nickel and countless wheats and other finds also. The irony of this all is they laid new concrete EXACTLY like what they tore up and the old stuff was still in great shape makes you wonder.
when you are in the woods looking for possible sites, look for flowering bushes or even flowers, not wild flowers but the kind we like to plant around houses and in gardens, they were probably planted on a homesite from many years ago. Also, look at the linement of the trees, could indicate a walk way or a forgotten road. If you find some old trash laying around, could have been a house nearby at one time.
(1) Whenever you receive a weak signal or any "iffy" signal, try different sweep speeds to recheck the signal. This will give you an idea of the correct sweep speed to use in this area so you won't overload the filters in the detector by sweeping too fast.
(2) Pretend you're hunting for DIMES. This automatically causes you to overlap your sweeps correctly.
(3) Your scanning should be so automatic that you don't have to watch your coil, but have time to look in the general area you're hunting to find small gold chains, earrings,or any small or non-metallic valuable item in your search area. Now you have 3 metal detectors running at one time!
Add a extra handle to your long handle scoop (no welding )
If you have got a long handle sand scoop and want to add a extra handle for leverage, with no welding, then I have got the answer for you. This handle that you see on my scoop is from a weed trimmer, it works really great, I could custom adjust it to my liking and I could take it off whenever I want.
There are alot of differant styles and sizes out there,check out your local shops to see what fits your need. Where to find used handles? You could start by looking on the side of the streets, alot of people leave them out for the trashman, I also have seen a few on used ones on ebay, or you may have one of your own.
Good local places to do metal detecting is in parks and playgrounds. old parks, Our community parks, city parks, zoos, picnic areas, city playgrounds, old playgrounds, sandboxes, swings, campgrounds and old battlefields is where we could go to look behind large trees, grassy areas, old trees, shady spots, unpaved parking lots, under park benches and pathways.
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